Edge-binding attachment



March 24,1925. I 1,531,024

M. PHILLIPS EDGE BINDING ATTACHMENT Filed may 24 1923 Patented Mar. 24, 1925;

UNITED STATES PATENT'i-OFFlCE.

MA NLY PHILLIPS, OF CINCINNATI, OHIO.

EDGE-BINDING Application filed. May 24,

, ance thereof. An object of my improvement is to apply the tape with an edgeturned under, concealingthe selvedge, entirely by sewing, rapidly and accurately; and especially to apply tape in this manner to the edges of the leather upper parts of footwear, whereby an acceptable substitute for the so called French binding is produced. A further object is to provide fol-ready control of the width of the underturned part of the tape, and -for adjustment to apply tapes of different widths in conjunction with now widely used sewing machines and their -tapingattachments. Other objects will appear in the course of the ensuing description. 1

I attain theseobjectsby the,device illustrated in the accompanying drawing, in which- Figure 1 is a perspective ,view of part of a sewing. machine with the devieein operativeposition thereon;

Fig. 2 is, a detail plan view ofthe intermediate guide, the attaching screws therefor being shown in section;

Fig. dis a front View of this guide;

Fig. 4 is a; left end view thereof;

Fig. 5 is aright end view thereof;.

Fig. 6 is alengthwise section on the plane of the line 6.-6 ofFig. 2, the screwsbeing omitted from this View; h

Fig. 7 is airagmentary enlarged perspective view corresponding to Fig. 1,showing the operation of the device; and

Fig. 8 isapartial left end elevation correspondingtoiFig. 7 ,with; the part of the tape emerging from the terminal guide broken away and represented in dotted outline only, better" to disclose the terminal guide.

The sewing machine illustrated is of well known construction, comprising the generally cylindrical base arm 1 containingat its; end the shuttle; not shown, and the lower ATTACHMENT.

1923. Seria1-No.v641,244.

part 2 of the i'eeding me'chanism, to operate in conjunction .withtheupper part ot'this mechanism comprisingthe foot 3 having. a four-way motion and the boot at having an up-an d-down motion, and the needle v5 passing down and up in a; notch'6 in the front of the foot at; such a sewing machine being known as a walking-foot binding. machine."

Also well known, asprovided by the manufacturersof the abovedescribed inachina-is? the tape applying attachment comprising the primary guide or tension de-- vicemadeup of a series of uprightst-uds 7 in a plate Sanountedon-top ofthe arm 1,

. and in longitudinal alinement with the series 011 posts or studs? the concave side of this passage 12 being inverse to the concavity of the channel 11.

Thisattachment, as is well known in the art, receives the tape 13 threaded between the studs 7 and passing through the passage 12.with its edgesthrown back around the convex rear side of. this passage and; emergingtheretrom and turning sharply back alongthechannel 11 whereinthe tape is thrown'around the edge of the leather or other flexible material 14 presented thereto in this channel 11; andthis material 14- with and the binder which'comprises a bar 9 this; tape 13 so folded around its edge passes j through the feeding mechanism of thesewing machine and receives thenstitching 15 therethrough by coaction of the needle and shuttle,v so that the tape is sewed firmly around the edge of the material, concealing this edge and: protecting it. I

,In the manufacture of fine footwear, espe- .cially ladies. and misses, shoes ofthe recent stylesfthere is a large useof this edge binding for difierent parts of the uppers;

and, for the neate'st eflecththe appearance ofthe selvedge of the bindingjtape on the finished face oi the shoe upper is objectionable. This has resulted in the development of an application of the tape in which. the

tape is sewed to the material in reverse posi tion and then folded over the :seam and around the edge, 1I1V0l V1I1g cementingas a part of the operation. By this method theselvedge and seam are entirely concealed, and this production, known as French binding, is in good demand for the .bestquality of goods. But the operation is complicated, and requires particular care, especially in the use of the cement to avoid marring the surface of the material therewith, so that footwear so finished is considered unduly expensive by many users, among whom there is a demand for a binding which will have the selvedge concealed and thus approximate the neat appearance of the French binding, but be considerably less expensive.

I providesuch a binding by turning the 1 edge of the tape that is to come on the outer face of the shoe part, sufficiently under to be caught by the stitching 15,'so that the binding is completely applied in thesingle operation with the sewing machine. This leaves appearing, along the turned edge, the stitching, which however, can be so finely and evenly done that it is not conspicuous, so that a very good imitation of and substitute for the French binding is afforded,

and which has been found fully acceptable to the trade before mentioned.

In the above described assemblage of parts of the taping attachment, the binder is spaced a considerable distance toward the needle from the primary guide or tension device; and I interpose between these the intermediate guide 16. The spacing thus provided is necessary, in the ordinary use of the device, to permit the easy travel of the tape from its unfolded condition in the tension device to the semi-circular fold in the binder. -My intermediate guide 16 comprises the right-handmouth 17 flaring upwardly and having its cross-section tilted forwardly (Fig. 5). This mouth leads to the exit 18 at the left end, which is a chan-' nel about as wide as the tape thickness, opening backward.- In soleading to this channel exit 18, the mouth 17 merges gradually from its more upright posture down to the'horizontal posture of the exit, which has its edges very thin as illustrated.

This combination of the mouth 17 and exit 18, gradually changing in posture and reducing in cross-sectional dimensions, permits the tape 13 to he threaded therethrough with its upper edge 19 folded forward in the channel of the exit 18; and when the tape passes into'the passage 12 ofthe binder, he edge 19 is creased down over the front of the remainder of the width of the tape, so that when the tape emerges from the binder and turns sharply toward the needle to be inversely folded around the edge of the material 14l,"this folded-over edge 19 becomes an underfolded edge concealedunder that part of the tape lying on top "of the material and lying within the area receiving the stitching 15.

In effecting this change in dispositionof the material from the tension device to the creaser, the passage of the tape to the semicircularly folded condition in the passage 12 is disturbed so that there is a tendency for thetape to ride up in this passage 12 and increase the width of edge turning. a provide against this by the tongue 20 extending down from the front of the mouth 17 and coacting with the forwardly convex part 21 of the bar 9, which is a right hand continuation of the rear convex wall of the passage 12 of this bar as the device is constructed b the manufacturers of the machine.v T is tongue 20 keeps the tape stretched. down around this convexity '21 from the inception of the. edge-turning operation of the mouth 17, so that the tape passes into the passage 12 fully stretched around the curved crosssection thereof, with the width of edge part 19 keptnniform and the opposite unturned edge part 22 of the tape fully extended in across the lower face of the material 14: to receive the stitchesl5. It will be understood that this opposite side of the material'is concealed, being against some other part of the shoe, such as another upper part or the lining, after the shoe is further assembled.

The bars 9 of the attachments are made with passages 12 of different dimensions for tapes of. different widths; and in selecting a bar 9 for use in .myinvention, allowance is made for the dimension of edge portion 19 to be turned under; so that the tape, with this edge 19 thrown forward, completely fills the semi-circular cross-section of the passage 12 and thus is guided therein with the same facility and accuracy as is a narrower unfolded tape likewise filling the passage. 3, My intermediate guide preferably is made from a single piece of sheet metal, the larger portion 23 of which is the support for the mouth 17, exit 18 and tongue 20, formed from a left-hand forward projection2a of this portion 23, which latter has two holes 25 and restson topofthe rear Part of the bar 9 where this bar is attached to the plate 8, with thescrews 26 used to attach the bar 9 through these'holes 25 and thus attaching both the bar 9 and myintermediate guide to the machine. As shown in Fig. 2, the

holes are amply larger than the screws, so

that my intermediate guide. can be moved considerably in any direction before final tightening of the screws, which preferably have aiwasher plate 27 under their heads, wider than the holes 25 and thus insuring ample clamping area at any of these adjustments thus provided. The intermediate guide is adjusted forward or backward, accordingly as a greater or less width of edge portion 19 is to be turned, and adjusted to left or right in accordance with the requirement for'keeping the tape fully extended in the passage 12 by the tongue 20 and con- (exity :21 before described, whether this operation be aiiected by the change in width of edge-turn, or by variation in the width of tape, or its texture, or degree of tension used. It will be understood that more or less tension is providedin these machines by causing the tape to pass around a greater or less number of the studs 7 in alternate directions, as indicated in Fig. '7. d' ith the interchange o't binders as in the usual operation of the machine, and the just described adjustments of my intermediate guide, it thus is possible to produce any width of finished binding desired, unitorinly and as rapidly as the machine is l'isually operated.

Modifications may occur, and while certain details are deemed preferable in conneotion with my invention, and I have shown and described these rather specifically in elucidating the construction and use oi my invention, as 1s requni'ed. I do not WlSll to be understood as being lmnted to such precise showing and description, but having thus fully described my invention.

What I clann as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent 1s:

1. In comblnatlon with means for continuously securing tape along an edge of a material, folded around said edge, and a binder guiding said tape to said edge in the folded condition, having a longitudinal passage of curved cross-section with the convex wall ot the passage extending past its entrance a guide having an exit channel with its terminal opening toward said a binder and its open side toward said convex wall, receiving and turning one edge portion of the tape passing intothe binder, whereby the binder delivers the tape around the edge ct the material with saidtapeedge folded under adjacent to the i'naterial, said guide having a tongue projected opposite Said convex wall to spread the tapearound said wall and tl'iroughout the curved cross-section of said passage.

Q. In combination with. means for con-- tinuously securing tape along an edge of a material, folded around said edge, and a binder guiding said tape to said edge in the folded condition, a guide having an exit channel with its terminal opening toward said binder receiving and turning one edge portion of the tape passing into the binder,

.whereby the binder delivers the tape around the edge of the material with said tape edge folded under adjacent to the material, said guide being adjustable across and toward the entrance to said binder to vary the width of the turned edge portion of the tape.

MANLY PHILLIPS. 

